Ancient roads and tracts of Kazan. Nogai road to Lebedyan Nogai road

Chapter 5. Nogai road to Gusin Ford.

The roads, called “Nogai”, radiated from the capital of the Bulgarian kingdom, Saraya-Berke, and then branched out. Movements along the Nogai Road in the region in question were controlled by mounted Cossack patrols, so the most valuable historical information is available in documents about the guard service of the late 16th and early 17th centuries.

In the area between the Don and Voronezh rivers, Divyev Way ran from south to north along the watershed. At different times and in different sections it was called the Voronezh or Dankovskaya roads. The Nogai road came from the south-eastern direction. Sections of these largest routes of antiquity can be traced on the ground.

Gusin Ford in Lebedyan

From Lebedyansky Gusin Ford (f. 50), on which there is a new bridge, and in our time you can climb to Tula Street, which is called so not by chance - along it the Nogai road went towards Tula and crossed in the area of ​​​​the Sarmatian settlement near the village of Slobodka with discussed above. Now there is an asphalt highway running along the watershed between Krasivaya Mecha and Rakityanka through the settlements of Agronom and Khrushchevka. This section was not included in the documents, because the guards did not stand further than Lebedyan, but it is shown on the atlas of 1790 and is marked “the road to Efremov.”

Perhaps readers have already noticed the presence of several “goose” names: Lebedyan - Akkaz, white goose or White Goose - among the Tatars, and in short - swan; Gusin Ford - Akkaz-kichu or Lebedyanskaya crossing, which is shown in the northern part of Lebedyan (r. 29). Among the Tatars, both the city and the ford were goose-swan. There is also Guseva Polyana behind the Rakityanka River. It is worth remembering two more “goose” cities: Gus Zhelezny in the Ryazan region and Gus Khrustalny in the Vladimir region. What would that mean? Echoes of ancient Swan from the first millennium.

What did the Tatars need in Tula, so far from Saray-Berke? The Bulgarian chronicles say that during the Tatar-Mongol yoke in that region there was a closed region of the Bulgarian kingdom - Dulo, or in Russian - Tula. It housed the residence of aga-papaz - an Orthodox bishop who served the believers of the Bulgarian kingdom (27). And yet, the road continued on a direct route to the lands of the vassal Grand Duchy of Lithuania.

The watchdog service of the region went through stages of formation in 1571, minor additions in 1577 and major reorganization after the Time of Troubles. During the reign of Ivan IV, the Skverna River served as the first border on the guard line with the Wild Steppe. Robbery detachments of nomads regularly came to Rus' along the Nogai Road and the Divya Way, climbed over this worst river in the world, robbed the roots, burned settlements, and drove people into slavery. In 1571, the Terrible Tsar issued a decree on the creation of a border guard service. Two Cossack guards were stationed at this line, and one of them was at the very mouth of the river on the left bank of the Don:

“The 7th watchman on the Don on the Nogai side of the mouth of Skverna against the Romantsovsky forest, forty miles from Donkov; and the guard on it will be four people from Donkov alone, and take care of them to the left from the mouth of Skverna to Kolodets five versts.” (28).

The left bank of the Don was considered the Nogai side, and the right bank - the Crimean side, in accordance with the geographical location of the Nogai Horde and the Crimean Khanate. The Romantsovsky forest occupied the area between the Don and Mechi rivers. The watchman took care “from the mouth of the Fel to the Well.” As of 1571, Lebedyan did not exist. The distance to the guard was measured from Old Dankov, which served as the main fortress of the region. In those days in Rus' springs were called wells. The documents list two well springs: the first at the mouth of Skvirnya, and the second under Lebedyansky Hill. The term comes from the word “deck” - a wooden frame that was placed in place of a well or source of drinking water. Exactly five miles from the mouth of Skvirnya, a powerful spring emerges from the rock on which Lebedyan stands. This Well watered the city and Lebedyanskaya Fortress for several centuries and is noted in many historical documents (29). A Turkish descent was built to it, along which water was carried in barrels on horses until the mid-20th century, and in the 17th century a well was drilled inside the rock in order to pump water in buckets during a siege. The spring still flows in a powerful stream, with an outlet under the surface of the Don. This 7th watchman took control of the Gusin Ford, known from the chronicles of the Battle of Kulikovo.

Another spring comes out at the very mouth of Skvirnya, its murmur can be heard through the dense thickets of willows. This source served as a guide for the neighboring watchman:

“The 8th watchman is at the top of the Skverna, and the guard on it is from Donkov with 4 people, and take care of them to the right down the Skverna, to the Well 5 versts, and to the left to the Nogai roads, four versts.” (30).

The 8th watch point is located a kilometer from the Dankovskaya highway up the river immediately beyond the mouths of two large ravines flowing into Skvirnya from the left bank. If you add up the sections of the Cossack route and measure nine miles from the spring along the right bank, then the point of intersection of the river with the Nogai road will be at Chernyshovka. It was not by chance that the seventh and eighth watchmen were installed in 1571: under their supervision there were two Don fords: Gusin and Romantsovsky, and the Nogai road. Let me emphasize once again: the fords of the Lebedyan-Dankovsky region were famous in history, key, and strategic.

By 1577, the border had moved south to the chronicle Kuzmina Gati near Tambov, where the Nogai road branches off from the strategic Tatar sakma. The watchman posted in this place is listed as number four in the charter for the Ryazhskaya watchman:

“The 4th watchman is upstream of the Lipovitsa River under the Big Horn below Dubrova, and the guard on it is from Ryazsky and from Shatskyi Shti, three people from the city, and they move down the Lipovitsa to Tsna below the Kuzminskaya Gati opposite the Nytyarangushi field, moving versts from fifteen, and on the other side move up the Lipovitsa to two forests, the crossing is half a mile away, about twenty.” (31).

The modern highway M6 - Volgogradka passes along the route of the Tatar sakma.

It appears near Kuzmina Gati from the Nytyarangushi field and is listed in a document of 1623:

“6th watchman Lipovetskaya, from Ryazsky 5th day. And on it there are guards from Ryazsky and from Shatsky, 3 people each; and drive to the Tatar sakmas from that guardhouse to the right up Lipovitsa and Polnaya versts from 30; and go left to the Kuzmina road about 15 versts" (32).

From the chronicle Kuzmina Gati to Gusin Ford in Lebedyan it is about 160 km, which corresponds to three horse days’ journey. This straight section was ridden by the Tatar detachment under the leadership of Bagun, when they were in a hurry to the Battle of Kulikovo. Wherever learned historians ascribe the concept of “Kuzmina Gati”, it must be borne in mind that in the primary sources this is the only one in Rus' named Kuzmina Gati. Gut is an artificial bottom covering at the site of a ford or in a swampy wetland area. Most often, the loose or muddy river bottom was paved with stones, and the swamp bog was covered with logs.

Another route point is indicated in the order of the Ryazhskaya 2nd watchman “Take care of the Nogai road for them, which is the road from Torbeev Ford”(33). Tarbeev Ford can be found on a modern map southwest of Michurinsk near Old Tarbeev, and it served for crossing Polnoy Voronezh. Obviously, south of Tarbeev Ford the road went towards Lebedyansky Gusin Ford. Is it by chance that on the site of the village of Dobroe Gorodishche, known since 1636, the Dobry fortress was founded in 1647? The Nogai road came from beyond the Volga Nogai steppes through the chronicle Kuzmina Gate near Tambov, bypassing Dobroye, Trubetchino, Vyazovo and was noted in many historical documents. The section from Dobroye to the village of Vyazovo, along which an asphalt highway runs, has been preserved. Its further path to Romantsovsky Ford can be traced along a field lane towards the village of Romanovo.

8 versts from the Nogai road, at the point of the village of Surki, Skvirnya was crossed by the Divyev Way, marked in 1630:

“The fifth watchman is the top of Skviren on the Nogai side of the Don River. From the new Donkovo ​​20 versts. And from Lebedyan the city is 8 versts. And the drive from it to the right to Kolodezsk is 10 versts, and to the left to Divyev Way is 8 versts. And from the watchman Ryas Yagodnykh 15 versts. 4 guard Cossacks were sent from Donkov to keep watch." (34).

Let me remind you that during this period the numbers must be multiplied by 1.6 to get in kilometers. Horse patrols walked along the high right bank of the Skvirnya from Divyev Shlyakh to the spring at its mouth over a distance of 29 km. In this document, the most nasty, unusually disturbing, strewn with pagan boulders “Filth” was decided to be remade into a modern Skvirnya.

The fact that the road branches in front of Lebedyan takes place. The second branch is noted in a document from 1577 for Old Dankov:

“The 9th watchman is the top of Kobelsha and Yagodny, and the guard on it is from Donkovo, from Ryazsky, four people from the city, two people each, and take care of them from Kobelsha and Yagodny to the right to the Nagai roads about ten versts, and from Donkovo ​​that watchman is about ten versts fifty" (35).

At the same point in 1630, the Nogai road was called Taranina Stitch

“The fourth watchman is at the top of the Kobelshi and Kochura rivers, on the Nogai side of the Don. From the new Donkovo ​​40 versts. And the drive from it to the right to the Taranina Stitch is 10 versts, and to the left to the Rudenskaya Stitche is 8 versts.” (36).

“The sovereign’s letter to Temnikov...” from 1577 tells us about the 3rd watchman:

“The 3rd watchman on Ryasy on Bolshiye, and the guard on it will be four people from Ryazsky, and take care of the road for them, which is the road from Ryasy to the mouth of Voronezh, and stand as a watchman above the Kamenovo ford on the right side of the Don.” (37).

We are talking about a point located east of the mouth of the Vyazovka, opposite which Yagodnaya Ryasa makes a loop near the settlement of Sreznevo. A ravine with the modern name Repets, which originates not far from Yagodnaya Ryasa, approaches the Don. Divyev Shlyakh came to this point, which went north to Donskaya Perevoloka. In 1571, this watchman had number 10 (r. 2).

Presumably, the Nogai road from Skvirnya ran parallel to the Divyev Way along the Don and crossed the Nogai ford on the site of the modern Dankov Dolomite quarry to the right bank (f. 37).

At this point, you should ask about the future fate of this branch of the Nogai road. What, it ended here? It couldn't be like that. She still has a long way to go across endless Rus'. The road can be easily traced along the modern route to Berezovka, Epifan, but this is just an assumption.

Nowadays, a country road goes through Selishche and Perekhval, along the ancient line connecting the Nogai road with Stolpovaya. The Jurassic Log directs it to the point of the Romantsovsky Ford. If we go back to more ancient times, in which the Polovtsian city of Sugrov (Snowdrifts) existed, then it can be argued that the Nogai road in ancient times led to it, to the Sarmatian towns near the village of Selishche, to the Donskaya Perevoloka, and its ancient name and meaning remained until before the era of Ivan the Terrible.

After the Time of Troubles, the situation on the border with the Wild Field changed. New Dankov was founded closer to the southern border of the state; it again entered the list of leading Ukrainian cities. The guard service was radically reorganized in 1636, many watchmen moved to new points, they received different numbering, and some were abolished. Above the Gusin Ford stood the Lebedyan Fortress (1613) with Streletskaya Sloboda and the Trinity Monastery (1621). On the Skvirna River, only the 5th watchman remained on the Nogai road (formerly 8th, in 1571), and the 6th estuary watchman (formerly 7th) was abolished as unnecessary:

“The sixth watchman is Ust Skviren... And according to the painting, it is not indicated to send guards to that watchman.” (38).

Robbery raids by groups of nomads numbering up to several hundred people occurred in the region almost until the end of the 17th century, but were successfully repelled by the garrisons of Lebedyan and Dankov.

The Nogai road lies on the map from Saray-Berke, through Kuzmina Gat, passing Tarbeev Ford from the south, through Dobroye, Trubetchino, Lebedyan, Bogoroditsk, to Tula. Another branch separated from this route before Vyazovo and went through the Don ford above the new Dankov to Kurkino, Epifan. You can trace it along modern roads after Tula and Epifani. Another branch is marked in the Donskaya Perevoloka area. Divyev Shlyakh also aimed at the point of Perevoloka - you can draw a straight line through its two documentary points.

The network of interfluve roads changed greatly in the 20th century: the ancient strategic ones became field ones, the old Voronezh one was forgotten, and the new one went from Dankov through Lipetsk along a very hilly route. Divyev Shlyakh was much more convenient from a geological point of view.

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Continuation of the topic of the section "Ancient roads..." opens in the menu on the page "Mikhailovskaya Road. Conclusion" or follow the link

Last edit in December 2017.

Nikolai SKURATOV.

The oldest of them is known from the 9th century. It connected the capitals of Volga Bulgaria and Kievan Rus. In the 14th century D. developed, connecting the Golden Horde cities of Saray - Ukek - Mokhshi and then went to the districts of Murom and Vladimir. With the emergence of the Astrakhan, Kazan, Crimean khanates and the Nogai Horde, new Dagestan appeared. In the absence of large rivers in the region, they acquired paramount importance. D. passed through steppe corridors along river watersheds. The upper reaches of the river or fords were chosen for crossings. The Astrakhan road (also called Surskaya, Moskovskaya, Posolskaya) connected the Caspian steppes and Astrakhan with Moscow. It passed along the left side of the upper reaches of the Sura through the region of the present P. watershed between Sura and Moksha to the region of present-day Insar and further to Temnikov, Kadom , Kasimov and on the M. Crimean road (Bolshaya Posolskaya, Burtasskaya) connected the Crimean and Kazan khanates. Passed along the river line. Lomov - right side of the river. Insarki – Stone ford across the river. Issu (near the village of Kamenny Brod, now Issin. district) and further through the outskirts of present-day Saransk along the river. Atemarke via Sura ca. mouth of the river Argash, along the river Korsunova to Kazan. There are two known Nogai roads (sakmas). One of them went along the Vorona and Lomov rivers through the Kozlyatsky ford (now the village of Kozlyatskoye N.-Lomov district) to the village. Karemsha and further along Moksha to Narovchat and Temnikov. The other is along the Khopra and Atmis rivers across the river. Lomov at its mouth near the present village. Pryanzerki, where the lower Nogai ford was located, and further along Moksha to Narovchat and Temnikov. With the emergence of Shatsk (1551–52), the so-called. Ardobazaar road (Astrakhanskaya, Nogaiskaya), the region ran along the line Astrakhan - Novokhopersk, Shatsk, Ryazan on the M. From Shatsk through the villages of Konobeevo and Shamorga on the river. Tsne along the rivers Idovka, Vysha, Burtas, Vorona ran the Idovskaya road. Between the Tsninsky and Mokshansky forests along the river. The Vadovskaya road passed through Vad. D. were not only the most important trade routes and embassy routes, but also were a source of increased danger. They were raided by Crimean and Nogai Tatars. In 1571, Ivan the Terrible established a sentinel guard service. Five Meshchera watchmen passing through the territory. territories, took control of the Crimean, Astrakhan, Nogai, Vadovskaya and Idovskaya villages. Since the 30s. 17th century In connection with the increasing frequency of raids by the Crimean Tatars and Nogais, a radical restructuring of the defense system of the southern and south-eastern regions is taking place. borders of Rus. state New serif features and fortifications are being erected. items appear Top. and Nizh. Lomovs (1636), Kerensk (1636), Atemar (1638), Saransk (1641), Insar (1647), Penza (1663), Ramzaisky fort (1677–78), Mokshan (1679). The steppe Dagestan took control of the fortresses and protected us. palace royal estates of Narovchat, Krasnoslobodsk, Troitsk and other internal. counties of Russia. New communication routes were built between the newly built cities. Thus, the city of Kerensk, which arose on the Vadovskaya D., connected V. and N. Lomov with Shatsk. From him through the village. Barancheevka passed D. on Narovch. settlement. Through the steppe to the north, the Saranskaya road ran from P., from which in the area of ​​the Kutlinskaya settlement the Insarskaya road departed, and in the area of ​​the village of Avyas, the Atemarskaya road. To the north-west Lomovskaya road stretches from P. In the sources of con. 17th century The Cossack (or Mokshazarovskaya) road is also mentioned, which connected P. along the left bank of the Sura through the Kadada and Kryazhim rivers with Syzran and Samara.

Lit.: Voronin I. D. Saransk. Saransk, 1961; Lebedev (2).

[WITH. V. Belousov. ROADS 16–17 centuries. on the territory of the Penza region / Penza Encyclopedia. M.: Scientific publishing house "Big Russian Encyclopedia", 2001, p. 416-417.]

How do cities grow and form? Almost the same. Some starting point has appeared that you need to get to - there is only one way to get to it. But the point that is gaining momentum is looking for more connections with the outside world. And where - like ours - there are no geographical intricacies, this point opens up several more roads for itself in the directions it needs.

Ancient roads are always naturally curved. They avoid hills, ponds, swamps and other inconveniences. They, like river beds, fidget over the years and centuries until they find the optimal position. Of the many directions needed by the point, the most important are highlighted. Finally, they receive names, most often from the area or objects to which they lead.

KAZAN MAIN POST OFFICE - ALL ROADS AND TRACKS IN THE PROVINCE WAS RECORDED FROM HERE

Over time, spin-offs from the initial settlement or simply new settlements are attached to these most important directions. Developed ancient systems of human settlement, including the Kazan system - a type of multi-legged creature. The spaces between the paws became meadows, arable lands, pastures, or remained nothing. Gradually, new settlements were formed in them, but the main ones clung to the paths to the main settlement - the city. Over time, some settlement on these roads flourished, became a local center and also gave its name to the road on which it grew.

Let's return to Kazan. We do not know the pattern of ancient roads or ancient settlements. The earliest reliable cartography came to us only from the 18th century. I emphasize - reliable - since previously there were world and regional maps, compiled, as a rule, by travelers, as well as local “drawings of lands”. The language of both is conventional in topographical terms. And of the acceptable and early ones, the most visual, in line with the topic under discussion, was the “Geometric map... of the major roads lying along the Kazan district” of the late 18th century. [ill.1]

The 8 “big roads” identified on it have retained their dominance to this day, although over time the gaps have all been built up, and they have their own new street grid. At that time these roads were called (from west and clockwise):

- The big postal road from the city of Sviyazhsk, also known as Moscow(now - approximately along 1st May Street and south of the Powder Plant, Arakchinskoye Highway, etc.);

- The road to the pilgrimage, i.e. - to the Raifa desert(approximately from 1st May Street to Gorkovskoe Highway, then this road turned into ZAVOLZHSKY KOKSHAY TRACT );

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